| Item Number |
18168
|
| Description
|
Onion Mammoth Red |
| Unit Price(£) |
2.00
|
Largest red onion in cultivation. Excellent flavour and keeps well.
|
100 seeds per packet |
Ideal for producing that extra large or extra uniform and outstanding shape for exhibition purposes also excellent flavour for the table.
Best sown from late December to late February. 30 x 30cm will hold approx.100 seeds. Sow seeds and cover with a good sowing compost. Germination should take place about two weeks. Keep at a temperature of 12° C. The seeds should be kept moist but donot overwater. Higher germination temperature can damage seeds, giving poor results. After germination, transplant the young seedlings into stronger compost, in individual pots if required. Lift seedlings gently as they are easily damaged. Water only when required. Botrytis can be devasting at this stage, so ventilate whenever possible but maintain temperature at 12° C. Transfer young plants from greenhouse to cold frame during mid to late March. The plants should be well hardened off prior to planting outdoors from late April. Planting times will vary according to conditions.
If growing onions for exhibition, they will benefit from being covered by cloches at this time. Both smaller red and white varieties are growing using a similar method. They can, however, be sown later.
Choose an open site with good draining for the onion bed. Trench 50cm deep for exhibition onions. Fork bottom of trench if sold. Into every four square yards of the bed work the following - 4 forkfuls of pea, bean or tomato haulms, 1 garden barrow of well rotted farmyard manure, 5oz bonemeal, 6oz sulphate of potash, every 5/7 years only 2oz sulphate of iron. First scatter haulms at bottom of trench then mix fertilizer into bed. Keep the greater proprtion of the manure near to the top of the bed within 10cm of the surface. This enables the roots to come in contact with the manure during the early stages of growth. This can be done late autumn/early winter when conditions are reasonably dry. Leave the bed rough over winter period.
In early spring, work the top into a fine tilth, adding 2oz superphosphates and 1oz hydrated lime or 1.5 lbs calcified seaweed into an area of 4sq yards. Unless the ground is very light, there is no need to firm. Plant out hardened off onion plants when conditions allow, usually mid April to mid May. Using cloches both before and after planting could be an advantage. If placed over the ground prior the lanting, the area will warm and there is less chance of a check in growth. Do not leave covers over for too long after planting. Approximately 3-4 weeks should be sufficient.
Onions can be grown on the same ground for many years but you must be extremely careful. Always remove not only the plant but also a small amount of soil where any suspect onions are growing. This should remove any unwanted bacteria in the soil. Again, to kill any unwanted bacteria or fungi, a watering of Jeys fluid after the crop has been harvested is suggested.
If onions are required for general kitchen use or the ground has not been previously prepared we suggest one barrowful of farmyard manure to 4squ yards should be worked into the ground. Add a good fertilizer prior to planting. You could add Calcified Seaweed. Do not allow onions to become dry during the growing season.
For exhibition onions, we suggest a planting distance of no nearer than 30cm x 30cm. For kitchen use this may be reduced to 20cm x 20cm.
Feeding onions on established beds should not be necessary. Feeding on ground, which has been cultivated for a number of years, can be harmful. If feeding is required it must be done in the early season. Onions with thick necks and poor keeping qualities can be a result of over feeding. 1 teaspoon of Nitrate of Soda to 1 gallon of water can be given as a feed. Water on all occasions when onions are dry.
Onions will store better if harvested with a little growth left in the plant. For exhibition, lift onions 10-14 days prior to the show giving the bulb time to dry. After cutting root and top off, leave enough top to tie down for the show bench. Remove dead or broken skin and leave to dry in a warm dry area, possibly a greenhouse. Exhibitions will, after 7 days, be able to turn the tops over for good presentation. Rubber bands work well for tying down. The band shrinks as the necks of the onions shrink, avoiding re-tying. For kitchen use, the dried onions can be stored in a cool, frost free shed or garage |
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